In summer 2018 we visited Puerto Rico for the first time. At the time much of the island was still recovering from the impacts of Hurricane Maria, and while some businesses remained closed, it was a warmly welcoming place to visit and there were no significant issues for us as travelers. The three areas we spent time in were Vieques, Rincón, and San Juan.
Island of Vieques
Vieques is a 52-square-mile island off the east coast of mainland Puerto Rico. Reachable only by small airplane or 75-minute ferry ride, its remoteness is part of its charm. Wild horses roam the island freely, and a number of undeveloped and deserted beaches are reachable via well marked hiking trails. When we visited in July 2018, the island was still visibly shaken by Hurricane Maria’s enormous impact, and about half of the businesses that were open pre-Maria remained closed. We met many people who were on Vieques during Hurricane Maria and it was by all accounts a harrowing experience. However, we found plenty to see and do to make a visit to Vieques completely worthwhile. For lodging on Vieques we stayed in a local AirBNB in Esperanza which worked out well for us.
Vieques is known for its wild horses who roam the island freely and we did indeed see horses just about everywhere we went, including hanging out on the beach. The locals keep their trash secured to keep the horses out. There are two sides to the island and a scooter or better yet a car makes traveling around the island easier.
Taking a tour of the island’s famous bioluminescent bay, Mosquito Bay, is a must in Vieques. We went with Jak Water Sports and they equipped us with dry bags and clear glass bottom kayaks, which allowed us to see the glowing bioluminescence underneath the boat. Our guide was fantastic and explained the science behind why the bay glows. The bay is an amazing natural phenomena and impossible to photograph without special camera equipment so we have no photos of our own, only magical memories.
We also took a morning scuba diving outing with Black Beard Sports. Our dive site was Mosquito Pier and our dive master knew the area quite well and was able to lead us to see turtles, starfish, octopus, and a barracuda. This spot would be a good choice for snorkeling as well.
Tip: When you visit the bio bay, the less the moonlight there is the brighter the bioluminescent glow will be. Go during a new moon for the best glow factor. During a full moon there probably won’t be much if any glow.
Rincón
Rincón is a town on the west coast of Puerto Rico known for its beautiful beaches and laid back vibe. Live music floats out of many of the beach bars and surfing and yoga are popular activities. We went on an amazing scuba diving trip with Taino Divers to Desecheo Island, which is reachable by 45 minute boat ride from Rincón. This trip was top notch and the diving was incredible.
We also enjoyed snorkeling on our own at Playa Tres Palmas (also known as Steps Beach), a gorgeous sandy stretch of coastline that is an ideal place to surf or just spend a lazy beach day. While in Rincón we tried mofongo, a tasty Puerto Rican dish made from mashed plantains, at Red Flamboyan. There is no shortage of great restaurants and watering holes in Rincón. For lodging we stayed in a local inn which was perfectly adequate but nothing spectacular.
Tip: Plan your day so that you are able to watch the sunset as much as possible while in Rincón, they can be breathtaking. The Beach House Restaurant on Route 413 is a popular spot.
San Juan
San Juan is Puerto Rico’s capital and largest city, and Old San Juan is rather touristy thanks to it being a major port for cruise ships. Ships pull up and dump thousands of tourists into the city to spend a few hours sightseeing and and buying souvenirs. As a result, the restaurants in Old San Juan have very touristy prices. When the cruise ship pulls away the city is much quieter and less frantic. The historic forts of San Cristóbal, San Felipe del Morro, and San Juan de la Cruz are impressive to tour not only for their historical significance but also for the stunning views they offer due to their locations along the coast. Walking around the historic district admiring the beautiful colors and architecture is a delight, especially for photographers.
We stayed at The Dreamcatcher, a dreamy vegetarian B&B in the Ocean Park neighborhood, which has a gorgeous beach and an appealing small beach town feeling. They often host a four-course vegan dinner prepared by local chefs at The Dreamcatcher and offer morning and evening yoga each day for a reasonable fee. It has a laid back bohemian vibe and caters to vegetarians and vegans with their breakfast options. We day tripped to El Yunque National Forest from San Juan and enjoyed exploring the parts of the park that were open, which included two trails, the Yokahu Observation Tower and a very popular picnicking area along the river.
Tip: If you enjoy street art, take a stroll around the Santurce neighborhood, especially Calle Cerra. Much of the graffiti art symbolizes modern social issues and economic challenges.
Everywhere we went the people of Puerto Rico were so helpful and welcoming. It is easy to understand why it is known as the island of enchantment. With its natural beauty, vibrant culture, and excellent lodging and dining options, it is a fantastic destination for a Caribbean getaway. I would return in a heartbeat.
More: To read about vegan dining options in Puerto Rico read my guest post on the Happy Cow Blog: Vegan Dining on the Island of Enchantment.
Enjoy the video below of highlights from our time in Puerto Rico.
