After arriving at the Komodo airport in the town of Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores in Indonesia, we checked into a basic but comfortable B&B close to the airport for one night. In the morning we were scheduled to be picked up between 9 and 10 am by the company organizing the three day, two night liveaboard boat trip around Komodo National Park we had booked. Komodo National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site made up of the three larger islands of Komodo, Padar, and Rinca, and 26 additional smaller islands. It is also home to the famous Komodo dragons. Labuan Bajo serves as the main gateway to the park.
Our pick up was coordinated via a Whatsapp group chat with some 30 people. Needless to say it was massively confusing and unorganized, but eventually a driver did pick us up at our hotel around 10:30 am and took us to the harbor area where we sat around and waited for about another hour. They then divided us up into groups and we found out we would be on one of three liveaboard boats along with 13 other passengers and a crew of five young guys. A smaller motor powered boat drove us and our luggage from the harbor dock to the liveaboard boat that we would call home for the next three days.
Our boat was basic but comfortable with sun and shade decks with bean bags for lounging. There was also a covered deck with a dining table where we had all our meals with the other passengers. Our private cabin was basically a room with a double bed that took up most of the cabin space with a window and a wood sliding door for privacy. It was basic but had air conditioning so was comfortable enough. These liveaboard trips are very popular in this area and come in a range of price points and comfort levels. We decided to try a mid-range option that we booked through Wandernesia but was actually operated by the local company Anjani Trip. The trip included all non-alcoholic drinks and meals of Indonesian food, which a cook prepared for us in the tiny kitchen on board. He did a wonderful job especially considering what little he had to work with for cooking space. We always had plenty to eat and drink. There were two bathrooms with toilets and very basic “showers” (sort of like a water hose with spray gun attached and no enclosure). The boat was basic but plenty comfortable enough for our island hopping adventure.
We started the cruise about two hours late but once we were out on the open water it was fantastic. The islands in Komodo National Park are breathtakingly beautiful. Our boat towed a smaller boat behind us to shuttle people from the big boat to the islands when we stopped. Our first stop was Kelor Island, a small island where we hiked to the top of a hill to take in an awesome view of the surrounding islands and the surrounding sea. The color of the water around the islands in Komodo National Park is some of the clearest I have ever seen. It was gorgeous.
Next we headed to Rinca Island, which is a natural habitat for Komodo dragons. When we reached the island we were led by a guide to a spot where a group of Komodo dragons were lying about pretty much right next to the ranger’s station. They were not in an enclosure of any kind (as they shouldn’t be) and did not seem to pay much attention to the people swarming about them taking photos. At one point several of the dragons stood up and started hissing, which was exciting, but other than that they did not move about much while we were there.
The Komodo dragons are the world’s largest lizard and their appearance is a bit intimidating. Not surprisingly they are at the top of the food chain on this island. After seeing the dragons we did a short hike to a hilltop to admire the beautiful view of the harbor just before sunset.
We then returned to our boat and enjoyed some wine we brought on the deck at sunset followed by a late dinner. Our first night on the boat was a little rocky and a few people were feeling a bit seasick in the morning. We were lucky the motion did not really bother us.
For our first morning on the boat we rose at 4:40 am to hike up to the top of the mountain on Padar Island to see the sunrise. The hike up took around forty five minutes and we then found a nice spot to wait for the sun to come up.
The panoramic views from the top of Padar Island are incredible and watching the sunrise was completely worth the early morning start. We did not realize this date was also Indonesia’s Independence Day holiday, so many Indonesians were there on the island carrying their national flag and singing their national anthem once the sun came up. It was a joyful display of pride and happiness to witness. We left the island at around 8:00 am to head back to the boat and enjoy some breakfast.
Next we headed to Long Beach, also known as Pink Beach because the sand actually has a pink hue. I did not catch what causes the sand to look pink but next to the clear blue water it makes for a stunning beach. We enjoyed some snorkeling and hanging out at this beach. To see such a beautiful beach in its natural state completely undeveloped was a rare treat. Swimming in the water was just heavenly. Our guide captured the photo below with his drone of us floating in the ocean at Pink Beach.
Our next stop was the spot named Taka Massar. It is a small sandbar of white and pink sand surrounded by crystal clear blue water. We walked the length of the sandbar and enjoyed the refreshing clear blue water. We once again snorkeled here and saw many beautiful fish, a sea turtle, and four baby sharks. It was such a gorgeous spot, it almost did not seem real. It amazed us that such a beautiful and unique place even exists.
Next we headed to a spot in the ocean known as Manta Point where we went snorkeling right off the boat. There we were treated to seeing two Manta Rays gracefully swimming in the ocean below. Every time we see these creatures I am in awe of their beauty and grace. Our guide told us they are not always visible here so we were quite lucky to see more than one.
We then went to one more snorkeling spot known for its sea turtle inhabitants. We dove into the ocean off the boat again with our guide and found two large turtles straight away. We then allowed ourselves to drift with the current and floated into an area with a stunningly beautiful coral reef. The corals and fish were gorgeous and the water was shallow and clear for phenomenal visibility. The snorkeling we did on this day at the various spots was amazing and some of the best we have ever experienced.
Next our liveaboard boat cruised over to Kalong Island, where large bats known as “Flying Foxes” live. We parked the boat beside the island and once the sun started to go down hundreds of huge bats began flying into the air from the island and flew directly over our boat. The continuous stream of bats leaving the island went on for what felt like a long time.
I really am not sure how many bats there were in total, possibly thousands or more. It was an incredible thing to witness and another reminder of how beautiful and amazing the natural world on this planet is. After another pleasant dinner on the boat we turned in completely exhausted from a long and full day of adventures and island hopping.
The next morning we enjoyed breakfast on the boat and then some of the passengers took the boat shuttle over to Kanawa Island. It was so pretty and relaxing on the liveaboard that I decided to stay behind with a few other passengers. I had also been in the sun so much the day before that I felt like my skin needed a break from the full strength island sun. I enjoyed relaxing on the shaded boat deck chatting with some of the other passengers while Rob explored the island. Rob said Kanawa Island was lovely with a trail to the top of a hill and a lovely beach area with more snorkeling opportunities. Below is a photo of Rob and some others from our boat the dock at Kanawa Island.
We enjoyed one more lunch prepared by our boat crew and then headed back to Labuan Bajo harbor where our liveaboard experience came to an end. The liveaboard was a big highlight of our trip and this part of the world is full of natural beauty like nothing we have ever seen. These Indonesian islands really do look and feel like paradise.
AHHHHH!!!!!!! AMAZING!!!! On my bucket list.